Wednesday, 19 June 2013

And onwards and upwards the pelerins push forward-Day 6

The sky was overcast and there had been some wind whistling through the roof of our second story room during the night. Elsewhere in France and especially in the Haute-Pyrenees, there was flooding and big storms. Pelerins there were being accommodated in school halls and a town or two had to be evacuated.

As is 'the Mode' elsewhere in the Western World, the politicians were deploying by helicopter to visit their citizens to say noble things, promise State support and ensure the media was there to project the 'right' image in the news.

Your pelerins arose to this grey world and bravely prepared themselves for just another day on the GR65 heading towards Spain and Santiago de Compostella. 0740 hours and by now the daily routine was being followed as Randall took the bags one by one downstairs and ready for transport to our next stay. This promised to be a much shorter day of about 17 kms and we were looking forward to a 2 night stopover and rest up a bit before venturing further into the Auvergne. In winter here it can get to minus 20, the roads are closed and the locals get around on skis. The cattle are locked away safe for the winter.

In the villages around here they observe the Transhumance, normally the last weekend in May, to celebrate the release of the animals back into the hills and fields for the summer, bells tinkling away as the cattle are fattened up for that inevitable day when they will become entrecote for pelerins like us.

 
We faced up to the most traditional French breakfast yet - a tray with local sausage and Entre Deux and Tomme cheeses, two large pieces of baguette, a croissant, butter and jam, fruit juice and a large pot of strong black coffee. Fantastic!

We then ventured out into the day about 0845. Yvonne bought some bread to go with a few things we had bought the day before and with rain coats on, we were off with others on our route out of town.
 

 
After a kilometre or two and with the wind getting up again and the rain starting to increase, your pelerins donned their overpants, zipped up the raincoats, pulled down the hood drawstrings and marched along the GR65 as it crossed hill and dale. The going was a bit slow as the fields around here were quite rocky and we were not wanting to slip or damage knees and ankles.


 
On and on the duo went, the rain increasing and the wind persisting. For the next 8 kilometres the weather persisted and yet the pelerins battled on, dodging cows and their bulls, going ever further across the crests and valleys. Heroes two.


At about 1130 the duo reached Aubrac where they found an accommodating 'Buron' which offered hot drinks, and eventually lunch. By now the weather had abated quite a bit. The rain had stopped and the wind gone, at least down here in the village. Your pelerins sacrificed themselves by having just two large coffees and a huge slice of homemade tarte with a melange of fruits. Very satisfying indeed. And to follow up on yesterday's events, the Japanese couple turned up just as we were leaving. She was happy enough to be walking again after a close call.


Refreshed by what turned out to be lunch and by the weather which had changed to just overcast with a hint of light sun, the duo pressed on and by 2.30pm, they had reached their home for the next two nights at St Chely d'Aubrac - Les Coudercous- a much appreciated Logis de France. The duo rested, having now completed 143 kms in 6 days. There are four walking days left to complete as we prepare to enter the Gorges du Lot and head for our destination of Conques.
 

And to complete Yvonne's imaginary story, the young Swiss bloke was back walking by himself today and Spanish girl is back with the other girls. Tonight we said goodbye to them both as it is unlikely that we will see them again.

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